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Ipoh beneath Monsoon clouds

  • Writer: Kuku
    Kuku
  • Jan 18, 2023
  • 4 min read

Updated: Jan 19, 2023

Bubu and I Scooted to Ipoh for a short getaway in December, joining her siblings (and relatives) in a birthday celebration for mum in the weekend.


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We were excited to visit Ipoh again; having left happy memories here in 2018, shortly after I left SOS.


As we flipped the last chapter of 2022 , the gods casted monsoon spells again, like the year before. Ipoh was drenched in constant showers.


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At times, fine drizzles landed like prickling needles, other times i felt the pitter patters awaken my senses. It was fun under the rain.


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We checked into Soujourn Guesthouse, which look and smells nice with lemon grass scent. We had one tiny problem. There was no hot water, no heater, in a rainy season.


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Instead of turning on the heater, Soujourn used its solar (where got sun?) to heat to save cost. The lukewarm water made us shiver and numbed Bubu's necks. Like others, we lodged a complaint which fell on death ears.


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We checked out and till today, did not receive the refund the manager has promised. No way am i coming back. 好看不好吃! Hmph!



The incessant rain slowed our exploration by foot. Under foamy gloomy greys, we made the best of our trip, and time, to explore all Ipoh has to offer, in 48 hours, under a tiny umbrella bubu brought from Singapore.


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Like joyous little cannonballs, we landed on Concubine's Lane, Kellie's Castle, Gaharu Tea Valley in Gopeng and Kek Look Tong Cave.


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After downing 2 cups of Ipoh white coffee, Bubu and I walked from the City centre to the famous Concubine's Lane, our feet soaked, but hearts singing. We took streetshots along our 1km journey.



Concubine's Lane


The place is not difficult to find on google map.


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Concubine's Lane or 二奶巷 mirroring Ipohs colonial past and its multicultural heritage, was once home to the mistresses of wealthy merchants and officials during the colonial era.


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Shophouses, two-storey high with balconies, were originally built to house concubines and their kids. The busy street was known for its lively nightlife, and a popular spot for gambling and entertainment.


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Today, Concubine's Lane is a great place to appreciate the city's rich cultural heritage and architectural finesse.


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Bubu and I rubbed shoulders and squeezed happy with mingling visitors (mainly domestic tourists).


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The atmosphere was bustling. Vendors sang to draw customers along the narrow lane and locals chatted and roared as they munched Kueh Pietee and sipped kopi.


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Stalls sell traditional crafts, merchandises and local snacks like peanut cakes, love letters and funny looking tarts. I saw a vendor selling Japanese jelly-like dessert called Raindrop 有没有!


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The air, filled with the smell of satays, char kway teow, pandan snacks, reminisced the old days (that I imagined to be).


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Inspired by colourful shophouses, noisy chatters and swarmy heat, this place is a vibrant muse for writers, instagrammers and 网红s.


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Kellie's Castle


SL very kindly drove us to this European-style castle that stands out in the middle of nowhere!


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Kellie's Castle is a grand and mysterious testament to the vision of its builder, William Kellie Smith, a Scottish planter.


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Built in the early 20th century, it has a mesmerising blend of Scottish and Moorish architectural styles, with grand turrets, arched windows and intricate carvings.


Smith had envisioned it as a grand home for his family, but his untimely death meant that it was never completed.


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The castle was left abandoned, for decades, and fell into a state of disrepair, its once grand halls and rooms filled with cobwebs and the echoes of memories past.


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But fate would have the stars aligned, one day, and the familial fort was restored to its glory. Today, it teems with historians, poets, romantics and vloggers across the seven seas.


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Bubu and I explored the grand hall, ballroom, and chapel.


The castle has (multiple) secret passages, a rooftop garden and a tower with a panoramic view of the surrounding offering a glimpse into the grandeur of the past.


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Btw, legends and myths have it that the castle is haunted by the ghost of Smith. Some claim it was built atop an ancient Hindu temple.


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After Kellie's, we visited Gaharu Tea Valley, a tea plantation in Gopeng, known for its ethically-cultivated agarwood products.


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Gaharu Tea Valley


Agarwood or eaglewood or 沉香 is a rare wood, hidden deep in jungles, highly prized for its fragrance and medicinal properties.


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It is known as the 'Wood of the God' (scared or not?!) In fact Agar wood was mentioned in the bible. I think its also treated as a valuable commodity in different religions as the fragrance connects you to the heavens!


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We saw people tour the plantation. They can learn traditional processing methods and buy agarwood chips, oil, and incense. Eh Ehh... Sangat Mahal siaaa!!


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Snacks, tea and street food


With mum and SL, Bubu and i tried rice cakes, toasts and bought local produce such as lime-plum juice and peanut cakes. Btw, do you know that Old Town White Coffee originated from Ipoh?



Kek Look Tong Cave


Bubu and I visited Kek Look Tong or 极乐洞 or Cave of Ultimate Bliss. It was our second visit.


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KLT is a popular, dimly lit (of course) cave with large chambers, adorned with intricate carvings and statues dedicated to deities and buddhas.


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极乐洞 has layers and layers of stunning limestone formations formed over gazillion years by mineral-rich water dripping from the cave's ceiling. My freezer looks similar.


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It also features a large pond, known as the "Dragon Lake" surrounded by lush zen greenery and is home to a variety of fish, mermaid, aquaman, antman and avatar.


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Cool and quiet and surrounded by a peaceful, tranquil vibe, its an ideal place to self-reflect.


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We headed to KL after 2 nights in Ipoh and took a 707 coach back to Singapore.


I wouldn't mind revisiting Ipoh and Gaharu to buy that genie in a bottle Wood of the God. See weather how.


Detailed captures in my video:


Thanks for reading, till then! 🐻


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© 2023 By Formylittlebubu. Precious short stories of our little lives on earth

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